Season Ahead: The Gilet
A look at some tasty Gilets for this season.
Random Find: Pokit, Horace II Slip-on Brogues
An interesting brogue from a little known brand. Further investigation needed.
The Wardrobe: Last Chance to Get Away
A cross between to 'Catch A Theif' and the talented Mr Ripley.
Lifestyle: A Day at Lord's
A day at Lord's.
My Own Money: Crafted Horn Key Fob by Albam, London
Hand crafted horn accessories by Albam.
The Wardrobe: The Aviator
Some choice pairings inspired by yesterday's post on the Alden Orvis Aviator Boot.
A Time for Boots: Alden Orvis Aviator
A new custom offering from Orvis.
The Season Ahead -A Jean Jacket
A modern classic, more versatile than you think.
London, Sherlock Holmes, Millford and Belstaff
The Belstaff Millford Great Coat.
Booze: Purl Bar
A new cocktail bar with a world class barman.
How the Other Half Lives: Berluti Shoes and Accessories
I was recently invited down to Berluti's shop on Conduit Street. I review the shoes and given some insight into one of the World's true luxery brands.
Lodger of London Footwear
A London based independent footwear company supplying beautiful hand made shoes.
One to Keep An Eye On: Present, London
A New shop in London's Shoreditch. Present offers a range of clothing and labels best described as American work wear/Trad. Best of all they stock Mark McNairy shoes.
Online Sources: Poshtime.co.uk
A useful resource for that trophy watch.
Online Only Sources: Cordarounds, San Francisco
A great company from San Francisco making some wonderfully original jeans and chinos. Like having your trousers designed by Monty Python. Certainly worth a look.
The Playboy Chukka, McQueen and Sweeney
Latest offering from British brand Oliver Sweeney is the tradish Playboy Chukka. Read our history and find out why it is such an iconic boot.
An Alternative Blazer: Nino's of London
The latest offering from Nino's.
On the Radar: Johnstons of Elgin
Founded by Alexander Johnston in Newmill (Scotland) in 1797, the company remains unique amongst British textile manufacturers in that it is the only mill in Britain to transform cashmere from raw fibre to the finished article.
The Perfect Summer Shoe: Breaker Suede Slip by Oliver Sweeney
While I've spent the better part of the summer loafing around in deck shoes I'm still searching for my perfect summer shoe. A strong contender
Vintage Goodwood
Vintage Goodwood is a collaboration between Lord March, of Goodwood Revival and Festival of Speed fame, and Wayne and Gerardine Hemingway, which will bring together an extraordinary mix of fashion, music, film and design from the 1940s to 1980s. A three day event set on the Goodwood estate located in the beautiful Sussex countryside, it aims to be a show case for 5 decades of British cultural creativity, with an emphasis on living the periods not merely experiencing them.
Ettinger of London
Despite the fact that they are one of the last hand crafted leather goods makers left in England, you still may not have heard of Ettinger. And that, curiously, is also what makes them so special. I recently had the pleasure of meeting Robert Ettinger to discuss his company and its future plans
Catwalk Capital: White, Pink and Navy
a perfect summer colour-way
Nosh: Benares, Mayfair
Another classic Toptable find. Michelin Starred Indian food.
How To: Twelve Looks, Five Shirts, Three Ties and One Week
Getting the most out of a limited budget and a limited wardrobe.
How to Build Your Working Wardrobe: From University to the Workplace
A few tips for this about to leave University or new entered into the workforce.
In the Bag: Ettinger's Piccadilly Tote
Possibly my perfect Tote.
The Wardrobe: The Right Garb
Another set of looks and some choice kit.
Sale Time Picks: Garbstore Sale
One always worth checking out.
The Wardrobe: Getting a Sweat On
After yesterday's post I had an idea...
A Good Sweat: Albam Athletic Sweatshirt
Albam's latest offering to catch my eye and some inspiration from the sartorialist.
Notice Board: Knomo Sample Sale, 14th & 15th July
Might be something worth looking at.
Sale Time Picks: Silk Handkerchiefs, Gieves & Hawkes
The ability to add colour, depth, texture and character to your look is a key requirement if you wish to be considered for a well dressed man.
Perfume Portraits at Ormonde Jayne
A new service offered by my current favourite London Perfumer Ormonde Jayne.
Notice Board: Ede & Ravenscroft Summer Sale
In my view of the stores worth checking out.
Catwalk Capital: London Accessorising
Inspiration on the streets of London
Sale Time Picks: Tres Bien
One worth checking out.
Random Finds: Take A Moment, Norton & Sons
Just Admire.
Look Ahead: John Smedley, Autumn/Winter 2010
A preview of A/W 2010 goodies from John Smedley.
Wimbledon Fortnight: Ralph Lauren 2010
Official Outfitter to Wimbledon Ralph Lauren launches his collection.
How To: Keep Your Dignity in Summer
A classic summer look.
A Suitable Tie: Nino's of London
I'm at Royal Ascot on Saturday, and so thought some new neckwear was in order. Beautiful Italian Ties from one of our favourite retailers.
A London Classic: Old Hat
A wonderful vintage emporium located in Fulham, just across Putney Bridge, renowned for high quality vintage evening dress and formal wear. One of my favourite shops.
Something For The Weekend: Aspinal's Exotic Double Fold Credit Card Case
A bit Flash, but perfect for a weekend's carousing.
Re-Stocked: Albam City Brogue
Finally! A re-stock of one of the sharpest brogues going.
On Line Only: The Denim Bar, My Wardrobe.com
My Wardrobe launches it's Denim Bar.
Accessories To Modernity: Knomo of London
Some wonderful bags and leather goods designed with moder life and technology in mind. Well worth a look.
Rock 'N' Roll: Archer Adams, Marylebone
A new find and a newly launched label. I talk to Archer and give you the low down.
A New Find: Henry Herbert Bespoke Tailors
Heads up about a young, new bespoke London tailor.
How To: Pick A Scent That Lasts
Do you know an Aftershave from an Eau de Parfum? You will do by the time you read this.
The Wardrobe: Looking Ahead To A Rakish Autumn
Another one of our looks.
Long Time Coming: Mr Genet Tasselled Loafer Available AW10
At Long last the Genet loafer will be available to buy!
A Well Travelled Man: Smythson Passport Holder
Rekindle the old art of travel.
Scented Odyssey Continued...Czech & Speake
Find out about all 9 of Czech & Speake's scents and how you can try them out for yourself.
Nosh: Bumbles
A perfect little restaurant for a date, an evening out with the gf or group of friends. You really can't afford not to know about this one.
Notice Board: Gieves & Hawkes Sample Sale
Tuesday 27th through to Thursday 29th April Gieves & Hawkes sample sale at the Music Room.
Random Finds: Cigars Unlimited, Fulham
A rather nice little shop and one worth keeping in your back pocket. The website's rather handy also.
Taking the Plunge
I'm debating whether to set up my own clothing label. Here is my pitch.
Time to Start Saving: Jaeger Autumn/Winter 2010
A preview of Jaegers Autumn/ Winter 2010 collection. A few choice bits.
Our London: Save Portobello
It's time to take a stand. Tuesday 13th April on 6pm at Kensington Town Hall (opposite Ken High Street Station, Cross the road; it's behind the shops)
Nosh: Christopher's American Bar and Grill
This place is the perfect date venue if you are looking to impress a girl or alternatively would be the ideal setting for a breakfast meeting with colleagues.
Online Only Sources: Wiley Brothers Belts
American company Wiley Brothers make hand made belts from English bridle leather and ship internationally. One worth having in your arsenal.
How To: Add A Few Blue Notes
Add a different note to your wardrobe and consider blue footwear.
Online Only Sources: Boxtree Boxers
There are boxer shorts and then there are boxer shorts. Boxtree Boxers is the real deal, and to find out what that mens read on...
Back to School: Vinopolis, Classes in Cocktail Making
The art of the mixicologist.
Portland General Store
Continuing my scented odyssey, I discovered a little known and hard to come by product range from the USA. Made by hand, the scents are stripped down and come from the 20's and 30's.
Shipton & Heneage Contemporary Collection
A look at Shipton and Heneage's new range and the merits of Blake vs Goodyear Welted construction.
Nosh: Magdalen Restaurant
If you want to impress the ladies this place gets the Westie seal of approval.
Thank You
BespokeMe reaches a mini-milestone.
Consider Cocktail Cuffs
A little history on the cocktail cuff, and why any cad about town should have a couple in his wardrobe.
Tripping the Light Fantastic: Dance Lessons at Dance Connection
Westie and I begin Ballroom and Latin dance classes.
A New Look For No.1 Savile Row
Gieves & Hawkes launch an updated commercial website and a blog.
My Own Money: Spitfire Bins
For some reason I have it in my head that these have a touch of 'The Talented Mr Ripley' about them; different, modern and yet a touch of old school Riviera thanks to the tortoise shell design and shape. I may be wrong but they feel ever so slightly art deco.
On the Radar: Submariner Jumper, North Sea Clothing
If like me you're a devotee those classic British war movies such as In Which We Serve, The Battle of the River Plate, We Dive at Dawn, Sink the Bismark and their like, then the submariner jumper may strike a similar chord.
How To: Sniff Out A New Scent
Some Pointers and Recommended Websites
Nosh: Kyoto, A Perfect Cheap Soho Eatery
A wonderful cheap Japanese restaurant which I don't hesitate to recommend. A useful place to have in your back pocket.
Jermyn Street As It Should Be: Harvie & Hudson
A proper Jermyn Street Shirt for under £50 isn't bad if you ask me. H&H are a classic gents outfitter offering classic English kit. Prices are fair and the service is good, particularly from the old boys.
A Few of My Favourite Things: Shades of Grey & Black
A few items that caught my eye and may interest you.
Booze and Nosh: The Grenadier Public House
A proper decent British Pub. One worth having in your arsenal.
Ormonde Jayne Perfumery
A Look at London based Ormonde Jayne perfumery. Specialising in rare oils and unusual ingredients for something unique and individual.
What Would You Like To See? (Answers in the Comments Section)
Smart Turnout are launching a new range of clothing and want to know what you would like them to produce.
How to: Fold A Shirt The Samurai Way
The Samurai way to fold a shirt.
My Own Money: Albam Tassel Loafers
How I spend my own money.
Big Discounts On Nino's Shirts, Ties and Accessories
Time to nip down to Nino's.
Wrist Action: Smart Turnout Military Watches
The combining of the ultra formal and the informal is something all the great dressers have demonstrated at one time or another.My preference is to go for the military watch and a coloured wrist band.
Cheap Online Sources: Michelson's Knitted Ties
A cheap source for good quality knitted silk ties.
Getting Naked in Spain: Susan Callister Photography Courses
Fancy a digital photography course in Spain. Westie reviews Susan Callister and gets her kit off.
Weadmire Come Up Trumps
If you like your T-shirts, and you've never heard of Weadmire.net you ought to check them out.
The Wardrobe: Town & Country
Another look and more choice kit that caught my eye.
Garbstore's Workerbilly Boot
Garbstore's Workerbilly Boot and a few other items.
14 Earlham Street & The Vintage Showroom
Half way down Earlham Street in amongst all the Street Wear shops is vintage store14 Earlham St.
Pre-order Mr Hare Spring Summer 2010 Footwear
Now available at Oki-ni, Mr Hare Sring Summer 2010 footwear.
Proportions, Loafing and McNairy
An introduction to Red Brick Sole and playing with proportions.
Notice Board: Salvatore Ambrosi Comes to London
Salvatore Ambrosi visits London.
Sale Time Picks, Part 6: Garbstore, Notting Hill
Our last pick, but it's a goody....
Sale Time Picks, Part 5: Load up on Ties
There are some good discounts on classic ties. Take a look at what we've found.
Sale Time Picks, Part 4: Flannel Patch Pocket Suit, by Jaeger
That Patch Pocket Jacket and those Flannel trousers I highlighted before Christmas have been reduced.
Sale Time Picks, Part 3: Cocktail Cuff Shirts, New & Lingwood
Another worthwhile investment.
Sales Time Picks, Part 2: J Simons Closing Down Sale
Get down to J Simon before it's too late. I'll be hoping to bag a pair of Playboy Chukka's.
Sales Time Picks, Part 1: Mr Hare Orwell, from Oki-ni
Recommendations from the January sales.
Back from New Zealand
Back from NZ.
A Few of My Favourite Things, Part 2: Taylor of Old Bond Street
Specialists in the art of shaving and male grooming.
A Few of My Favourite Things, Part 1
A Few of My Favourite Things, Part 1
My Christmas Booty: Albam Bound Knit Bodywarmer
I have to say, Westie pulled a blinder this year in the form of this Boundknit Bodywarmer from London's Albam.
MERRY CHRISTMAS & A PROSPEROUS NEW YEAR
MERRY CHRISTMAS & A PROSPEROUS NEW YEAR
The Wardrobe: Oddity in Moderation....
Oddity in Moderation....
The Wardrobe: More Than Just A Load of Old Flannel
A Look based around that all time classic the Flannel Suit. A must have for any man, and that's more than just a load of old flannel.
The Wardrobe: A Winter's Weekend Away...
There is an art to travelling in style. What you take with you must cover all eventualities. A few ideas for a winter's weekend away.
Random Find: Diverso Menswear
A quick look at Diverso on St Christophers Place.
Patch Pockets
A consideration of Patch Pockets on suit jackets.
London Past: Michael Caine and Doug Hayward
Celebrating London's own Michael Caine and Doug Hayward.
School Days Inspiration: Black Suede Shoes
Why you should think about black suede shoes, and a few sources.
Discount for BespokeMe Readers at Onlyredwing.com
Simply go to onlyredwing.com and use the discount code BESPOKEME
Notice Board: Cockpit Arts Open Day, Deptford
Another chance to buy hand crafted and unique christmas presents at Cockpits Arts. This weekend it's the turn of the Deptford studios. Read how we got on at the Holborn open day.
The Hayemaker's Hard Hitting Endorsement: Nino's Shirts
An interview with London's boxing champ David Haye on his love of clothes. A couple of interesting recommendations, including Nino's shirts
Learning to Appreciate Argyle: Smart Turnout Argyle Jumpers
A look at Smart Turnout's Argyle jumpers, and why you'd be wise to have a little Argyle in your wardrobe.
That Perfect Something: Cockpit Arts Christmas Shopping Event
A unique opportunity to get that perfect, hand crafted gift for someone special. Cockpit Arts studios are opeing to Christmas shoppers.
Is This Really The End: J.Simons set to Close
It is with great regret that we announce J Simon in Covent Garden is set to close in February. Until then you have a chance to shop at an institution and pick up a bargain.
Grenson's Artful Archie
A Look at Grenson and their Archie brogue. Perfect for the wet winter time.
Something Old, Something New: YMC Canvass Officer Shoe
YMC's Canvas Officer shoe and a few places offering them at marked down prices.
A Timely Bargain: Shofolk Bobby Chestnut Shoes
A favourite shoe at a bargain price. The Shofolk Bobby Chestnut in suede and leather on sale at ASOS. A real beauty.
Spirited Away: Pendleton, Spirit of People Weekender
An interesting weekend bag from US company Pendleton.
Books: Jake Arnott's Long Firm Trilogy
Arnott's three books, 'The Long Firm', 'He Kills Coppers' and 'True Crimes' form a lose trilogy which give a vivid account of the dark underbelly of 1960's London, replete with the characters of the time, and the scandals.
One Day Only Bargains: William & George and the Carnaby Shopping Event
Today, 20% off over 100 Carnaby shops, bars and restaurants. Registure here.
A Near Perfect Loafer: Albam Tasslled Loafer
London based Albam's new tasselled loafer. Another successful collaboration with Grenson and a shoe you would dress with anything.
A Little Luxury: N.Peal's Cashmere Knit Ties
We could all do with a bit all of luxury in our life, and At £59 a go, it's rarely been so affordable.
London Past: The Krays
Some photos of London past, featuring notorious gansters the Krays.
The Wardrobe: Buckle Up BIG
Even the smallest detail can make a big difference to a look.
Lessons from Niv
A look at the style of British actor David Niven.
Favourite of the Well-Heeled: Shipton & Heneage
I just thought I'd say a few words in praise of London based Shipton & Heneage -the public schoolboy's favourite shoe shop. I recently purchased these black suede full brogues and was extremely pleased with the service, and the shoes. Shipton & Heneage are what I call collectors. They don't manufacture their own shoes, but instead buy them from a variety of shoe makers, predominantly English, and create a comprehensive wardrobe under their own label.
Something Different: Carreducker Shoe Making Course
Ever wanted to learn the art and artistry of English handsewn shoemaking? Certainly beats playing golf. Deborah Carré and James Ducker run courses in the UK and New York on which you can learn to make your own bespoke shoes.
Fused or Unfused Collars?
There's a lot of snobbery and silliness in the world of men's clothing, but then it's no different to any other field. This is particularly acute in discussion of whether a shirt should have a fused or unfused collar.
Under New Management: Stephan Haroutunian Shirts
I'm more than pleased to report that this business remains in the family, and has been placed into the very best of hands. I cannot speak highly enough of this shop, and I'm pleased to say can continue to do so for some time to come. Indeed, this time I can even show you pictures.
Buckle Up: Interstate Belts
Some things just appeal, and you're not always sure why. That's how I felt when I found these belts in an independent retailer called Interstate, located in Covent Garden.
New Find: Carreducker Bespoke Shoes
Primarily bespoke shoe makers they also sell semi-bespoke and limited edition ready made shoes (100 pairs per design) which are based on their designs.
A New Find: William & George
Sandwiched between the equally famous Regent and Carnaby Streets is the lesser known Kingly Street. This little travelled thoroughfare is where I found William & George. Primarily a bespoke tailor, they also stock a nice range of off-the-shelf shirts, ties and handkerchiefs under their own label.
In Support of the Independent Retailer
There are basically three types of independent retailer:
-The Craftsman;
-The Designer/Enthusiast; and
-The Collector
Seeking out a few of each will vastly improve your wardrobe and better help you find your own look -a key requirement to achieving that classification of 'a well dressed man'.
The Great White....Shirt
The White Shirt Company do exactly what the name suggest. No prizes for guessing what that is. It is certainly an interesting concept; do one thing, and do it really well.
The Wardrobe: Layering Up
This one might as well be called 'how to layer'. Successful layering in my view as all about mixing texture.
Layering Up: Merino Wool Sweaters, Nino's of London
Selling for £55 a piece, that's not bad for a quality jumper. They're available in a wide range of colours from staples like browns and taupe to more daring shades such as fuchsia and aquamarine. I liked the off-white pictured above, which is preppy to my way of thinking.
Elegant Simplicity: Wallets by Albam of London
Made in England from vegetable tanned leather, they can carry 8 cards and are sufficient in size for receipts and banknotes. Available in Navy, Red, Vachetta, Tan and RAF Blue (which is my favourite). A relatively new company, Albam is an independent label founded in 2006 by James Shaw and Alistair Rae, simplicity and subtlety are their hallmarks.
Well Armoured: Stingray Wallet, Edwards of Manchester
Stingray is a hard wearing skin which was used by the Egyptians to fashion body armour; and according to one source, the skin was even prized by Samurai worriers for the handles of their swords.
Chilling Colour Combinations: Eastpak Spring/Summer 2010
These new Eastpak daypacks and assorted luggage will be introduced into selected stores worldwide in January, including Eastpaks Icon Store in Carnaby Street. They're part of a collaboration with London based menswear designer Christopher Shannon.
Best in Show: Mr Hare's Spring and Summer 2010 Collection
In a sea of dross and exhibitionist crap was an oasis of beauty, creativity, craftsmanship and pure style, which was Mr Hare's 2010 collection.
A Little Something Special: Tim Little Whole Cut Shoe
The shoe above is the product of London's own Tim Little, an independent shoe designer based on Chelsea's King's Road. I think these whole-cuts are beautiful. Available in dark brown and black, I'd personally go with these rich tan versions.
The Full Monty: Baron's of Piccadilly Duffle Coat
Available in the traditional camel as well as blue, sizes are limited so hurry. But for £189 it's worth considering if you're in the market for one.
Baron's has been located in Piccadilly since 1963, and it is like stepping back in time.
Cuffed Mischief: Alexander McQueen Ottone Cufflinks
I am not much bothered by designer labels. But just occasionally I see something that turns my head, and not always for explicable reasons. These Alexander McQueen cufflinks from Oki-ni fit that bill.
Renaissance Men: Armbands vs The Buttonhole
A search for some alternative detail that might set us apart and afford some individuality.
Motor Racing at Crystal Palace
Now part of the metropolitan sprawl in the late 1930s Crystal Palace Park was the setting for motor sport; first motorcycles, and later in 1937 the London Grand Prix.
Adding Texture: Cordings Wool Waistcoats
Unlike lesser offerings it has the proper finish, including mother of pearl buttons and wedge waistband as opposed to a straight one. I've always regarded it as a sign of a chaps sartorial maturity if he can add a little texture to his business dress. It's a simple trick that adds depth and variation, and one the best dressed learn quickly.
A Deck Shoe Is For Life Not Just The Summer: Timberland Customable Desk Shoes and Lugger
A new service from Timberland online you can now customise both their deck shoe and the 3 eye lugger for only about £30 more than the standard price.
Rakish and Rare: Mr Hare Tasselled Loafer
I have to say they're one of the most beautiful pairs of shoes I've yet seen, combing an elegant shape with variety of texture, and subtle detailing -notice the off-centre positioning of the tassel.
Tool Up: The Valet Box
Of course it's one thing to have all the right kit, it's entirely another to look after it properly. This is never more so important than in the case of shoes. Buy good quality shoes, treat them kindly and your journey together will last a lifetime.
Dog's Bollocks Online: Adam of London
I'm pleased to say that Adam Shener has finally taken Adam of London online. The site offers the full range of his beautifully tailored suits as well as shirts, ties and overcoats. When Adam and his guys were putting the site together he asked if he could use my review and some of my photos. I was naturally happy to oblige, and initially flattered.
What the Papers Say: Glen Check, The Power of Thomas Crown, Interview With A Duffer and One For The Albam
What caught our eye from the mainstream media and the blogosphere. For an alternative Sunday read.
How to: Tell A Tartan From Check
While fiddling with the last post I made the mistake of wondering what the difference was between a check and a Tartan. Given the prevalence of both for shirting options this season, and the cultural connotations it seemed relevant. And of course having asked the question I had to answer it -which was no mean feat.
Catwalk Capital: A Flash of Tartan
Given the long, interconnected and previously bloody history of England and Scotland, its adoption is as much an act of subversion against the English establishment -and good form- as it is a celebration of Scottish ancestry.
Vintage Digital: Vintage LCD and PockeCalculatorShow.com
There are plenty of new Digital watches about, including rereleased versions of the classics. But I reckon if you're going to go digital then go retro and buy yourself the genuine article.
The Jewel Box: Tootal Scarves
Solid, unfussy and masculine in tone, while retaining that Tootal vibrancy of colour, any one of these three would sit as comfortably under a Covert Coat as they would a Harrington.
Notice Board: The Great British Beer Festival, 4th -8th August
Tomorrow is the start of the Great British Beer Festival at Earls Court, and provides a chance to sample some of this Sceptred Isle's liquid gold.
Catwalk Capital: The Short Raincoat
With little evidence to the contrary, it would seem that the English summer is all but over.
The Wardrobe: Decline & Fall of the English Summer
I'm afraid so. Still every cloud has a silver lining, and rain is merely an opportunity to test your sartorial skills in the face of adversity.
Notice Board: Wisden Cricketer's Story of the Ashes
It charts England and Australia's 133-year rivalry through the eyes of the writers who were there. It provides both histories to special series as well players of note, like the Don.
The Great White...Shirt
Ede and Ravenscroft White Shirts
Online Sources: On The Fly White Sport Nubuck Oxfords
With the rediscovery of Ivy League these are right on trend, but a little different to standard Bucks.
T. Burrows Breton Jumper
T. Burrows Jumper - an ideal light weight summer jumper
Great Kit, Lousy Staff: Hilditch and Key
Review of Hilditch and Key, excellent kit but appalling customer service
Handkerchief, Neckerchief and Pocket Square
Three good reasons to make use of this cotton handkerchief from Hilditch and Key.
Noticeboard: Glorious Goodwood
Glorious Goodwood is another of the great social and horseracing events on the sporting calendar.
Old School: Lloyd Miller, Bespoke Tailor and Alterations
Mr Lloyd Miller is an alterations tailor. He's also a little more than that, being a full bespoke tailor -not to mention a proper gentleman.
The Ashes: 12th Man
Alas not Ashes commentary with this one, but nonetheless it gives you a flavour of what to expect.
The Ultimate Football Shirts: TOFFS
The name TOFFS actually stands for: The Old Fashioned Football Shirt Company. And that sums them up perfectly. They sell high quality reproductions of famous players and team shirts.
The Ultimate Cycling Kit: Rapha Performance Roadwear
Quality cycling kit you can wear even if you don't own a bike
Online Only: Oi Polloi
Online retailer with distinctive and original clothing and accessories.
Dining: Roast and the Earl Grey Martini
An Earl Grey Martini at Roast in Borough Markets
Royal Ascot 2009
Royal Ascot - a guide for the commoner
Catwalk Capital: Keep It Simple
Simple doesn't have to mean boring.
Catwalk Capital: Life Imitating Art
Japanese fashion illustrator: studued artistic style
Catwalk Capital: How to wear a morning suit
Novel way to wear a morning suit
Catwalk Capital: New Tricks From Old Dogs Continued...
The rare 4-on-1 Double Breasted Suit.
Admirable T-shirts: WeAdmire.net
Perhaps the most orginal T-shirt designs going.
Catwalk Capital: Find Your Personal Style And Don't Look Back
Tweed and Tatts
Catwalk Capital: How To Dress A Small Frame
If you want to add some weight to your look wear a heavier shoe in a tone lighter than your trousers. Here are some footwear suggestions.
Catwalk Capital: Modern Mods and Scooters
A few shots from a recent Mods rally through central London.
What The Papers Say: Our Weekly Roundup
A weekly roundup of articles from the mainstream press and the blogosphere. For an alternative Sunday read.
Something For the Weekend: Houndstooth, Patch Pocket, Buggy Lined Jacket
This jacket is robust, but suitable for all but the hottest climates. Easily smartened up by combining it with wool trousers (or a change of footwear) for an impromptu formal occasion or dinner; likewise, thrown it over a polo and chinos for some city exploring, with enough pockets to put your wallet, map and other exploratory kit.
Better Late Than Never: New Ede & Ravenscroft Website
It seems traditional English bespoke tailor and outfitter Ede & Ravenscroft have entered the 21st Century and launched a fully commercial website.
What The Papers Say: Niven, Pastels, the Butcher's Stripe, Rolling Stones and Underwear
A weekly roundup of articles from the mainstream press and the blogosphere. For an alternative Sunday read.
A Night In: Wall Street
The must see film of the 80s, on both sartorial and cultural grounds it still seems strangely current.
My Own Money: T Burrows Unstructured, Patch Pocket Jacket
This is a throw on, anytime, any occasion jacket that every man ought to have in his wardrobe. It sits as well with T-shirts and jeans as it does with collars, tie and woollen trousers. In fact there really isn't much you can't put with it. It's a classic bit of kit and a core item for summer. It also happens to be a speciality of Allan and Michael's at T. Burrows, which was where I bought this one from.
The Healing Powers of Laughter: Al Murray
Al Murray's creation of the Pub Landlord is to my mind one of the great comic personas of all time. Deeply ironic and responding to all our basest conceits, it's far cleverer an act than you might initially conclude, particularly in an era of political correctness.
Retro to Go: 60s Suede Loafers, from Ebay
Proving the point that everything comes back in if you wait long enough, the subtle narrowing to a near point of the toe puts them right on trend; although without going to the ludicrous extremes that most modern footwear seems to have. They're rather well constructed including a reinforced cap in the toe, which should help them keep their shape.
The One and Only: Wayfarer Sunglasses, £10 at John Lewis
I can see the allure of owing a pair of designer sunglasses, but given the unlimited possibilities for mishap and misfortune, and a very good alternative, I could never justify the cost.
A Day of Discovery, Part II: T.Burrows, Marylebone
I've thought long and hard about how to describe this shop and what it does. I still can't quite crack it. The shop has an interesting range of clothes that I can only describe as transatlantic. They're not quite traditional British tailoring, neither is it pure Ivy League. Although I am convinced that, like me, anybody with a love of either would instantly see the value of this shop.
Nosh: Brunch at Providores, Marylebone High Street
While Providores do lunches, dinner and Sunday evening roasts, in the main restaurant upstairs, they're most famous for Saturday and Sunday Brunch in the ground floor Tapa Room. A cross between a bar, coffee shop and cafe it's a popular meeting place. Indeed, get there too late and you'll be joining a queue that stretches along the pavement.
Midriff Subversive, Part II: Velo-re Belts
These wonderful belts are actually made of bicycle tires, believe it or not. It seems an utterly bizarre idea, but sometimes that's exactly what originality requires. They certainly provide something different to the ribbon and grosgrain belts that are the uniform this summer.
A Call to Arms: Threatened Closure of Bates Hatters
It seems that the Landlord of distinguished men's hatter Bates want to redevelop their building and thus force the closure of the business. To allow the redevelopment of this shop will certainly spell the end for this firm.
A Few of My Favourite Things: Redwing Boots
They just look the way a boot ought to look.
A Few of My Favourite Things: Blue Shirt, Orange Tie
A blue shirt worn with an orange tie is one of my favourite colour combinations, and if putting colours and patters together isn't your forte, it's pretty much fool proof.
Craftiness: An Alternative Tie Pin
I was on the hunt for an elusive tie pin/clip, which I made mention of in my post on 'The Art of the Old Rogue'. The tie pin in question looks like a cross between a safety pin and kilt pin. Having given the matter far more thought than was sensible and healthy, I reasoned it probably was a kilt pin.
Giving in to Temptation: Paul Magen, Bespoke Cufflinks
Cufflinks are addictive things. From the moment you acquire your first pair, the chances are you will begin a lifetime's quest to find that perfect pair; distinctive, individual and timeless.
So what do you do if you think you've exhausted all the possibilities, or have something in mind that doesn't exist? Well, that's where someone like Paul Magen comes in handy.
Wool & Knitted Ties: Emporium, Greenwich
Rather popular the last couple of seasons they're a staple of my wardrobe whatever the trend. They're also a particularly suitable accessory to wear with jeans or chinos and a cotton jacket during the warmer seasons. Plenty of labels have them in their collections, as do the outfitters of Jermyn Street for whom they are staples. But, if you want the original article in some rather distinctive colours and weaves then Emporium's collection might be the way to go. Selling at £15-£25 it's also a cheaper means of experimenting if you're new to the idea.
Random Finds: An Alternative Satchel
Ultimately a satchel is a utilitarian accessory. And while there is a certain amount of pleasure to be gained from owning a well crafted, quality piece of leather luggage, I also like the idea of going down another route, with something a little different.
Brooks Brothers, Part II: Testing the Waters, Shirting
Actually I was pleasantly surprised on all counts. The staff were polite friendly and helpful. There were no noses in the air. Indeed, Westie and her mate Sara had pitched up a week earlier semi-tanked on the hunt for a pair of socks I was after. They raved about the treatment they received.
Notice Board: An Extraordinary Man
In my last post I mentioned the author Bret Easton Ellis. While digging for links I found this interesting interview, which is certainly worth a look.
Brooks Brothers: Part I
Forget apple pie; for many US males there is nothing more American than this Ivy League bastion of American sartorialism. Indeed, it is hard to think of anything comparable here in the UK. Perhaps the closest we come, in terms of universal recognition, is Savile Row or Marks and Spencer. Indeed, for a time Brooks Brothers was owned by M&S, but even these two institutions don't quite approximate to the institution that is Brooks Brothers.
Midriff Subversiveness: Coloured and Patterned Belts
Having decided to try a little classic suiting and midriff subversiveness, here are some sources.
Good To Be Noticed: An Unusual Raincoat
As February nears its end, and we approach March and April the worst of the cold weather is behind us. But it's not all Pina Coladas and Hawaiian shirts yet. In England, March, April and May can often be quite wet. The Raincoat is the natural outerwear choice for the season.
New Tricks from Old Dogs: The Art of the Old Rogue
Inspiration for a look can come from some curious sources, it certainly doesn't have to be inspired or condoned by the glossy mags. I've always had a soft spot for 'old boys' who know how to dress well, obviously maintaining in their dotage standards which they picked up in their youth. You may know the sort of gentleman I mean. You'll often see them on the Tube; they're always immaculately dressed in well worn but perfectly tailored suits, shirt and tie incorporating some flourish, sometimes carrying a hat or furled umbrella, sometimes not. And all share a slightly roguish glint in the eye.
The Genuine Article II : Vintage Tootal Scarves
The company's distinctive paisley and polka-dot scarves, for which they became renowned, proved popular accessories from the 1920s to the 1950s, particularly amongst the working class. They became a key fashion accessory during World War II, becoming forever associated with the "RAF" look. As a result of this look, the scarves enjoyed a new lease of life in the 60s, when they were adopted by the Mod fraternity, for whom it remains an iconic fashion label.
The Genuine Article: The Pea Coat -Emporium, Greenwich
Jonathan Hale, the owner of Greenwich's vintage shop Emporium has sourced these genuine Pea Coats from a contact based States side, and he's selling them for between £65 and £75 - depending on the condition.
In The Know: Stephan Haroutunian Shirts
Quite simply this is a proper old fashioned shirt maker providing a good quality product and charging a reasonable price for it. £69 for an Egyptian, two-fold cotton, made-to-measure shirt, no minimum order, and beautifully made to boot.
A Rare Vintage: Emporium, Greenwich
Emporium is one of those shops that has the imprint of its owners' personalities all over it. Step over the threshold and the first thing you notice are the soulful beats and jazz tunes playing in the background.
The Art of Vintage
Vintage clothing might not be everybody's cup of tea, particularly in a society that seems to prize newness above all else. But to dismiss it out of hand or not give it due consideration is to miss a useful trick, and thereby limit your options.
Online Source: Bromleys
This site has been in 'The Directory' for a while, and can say I've put my own money where my mouth is, having purchased a shirt and a couple of ties through them.
So, having first tested it, I thought it was time to phone them up and find out a little more about them.
Online Only Sources
If you have any love of clothes you have probably, at least once, tossed around the idea of your own menswear store...
Well, aside from traipsing the streets of London, to find the illusive independent, I have begun to search online...
How to: Fold a Pocket Square
You either get pocket handkerchiefs or you don't. Personally, I love em. Few men in my age group wear them, so I make a point of doing so; separates the cads from the boys.
Suffice to say this is the most straightforward (lots of diagrams) guide I've yet found, published or online, on how to fold all the variants for the pocket handkerchief.
My own money: Harrington Jacket, from Emporium
I was toying with the idea of buying a Harrington jacket since the worst of the winter weather abated. So, when I come across this one from Greenwich's legendary vintage store, Emporium, for a mere £30 I thought it well worth an exploratory punt.
Without Equal: Benson & Clegg
This morning (Saturday) I was fortunate enough to find myself on Horse Guards Parade for Trooping the Colour.
Which reminds me; if you hanker for a range of neckwear that feels grounded in institutional tradition, then Benson & Clegg in the Piccadilly Arcade is the only place to go.
In your back pocket: James of London, Bespoke Tailors & Alterations (Part I)
In my view, finding a good tailor for alterations and repairs is time and energy wisely spent. For a few years now I've used family owned and run James of London, located in Pimlico.
Random Finds: N. Peal Cashmere Knitwear
I have long held to the theory that nothing bad ever came out of the Burlington Arcade. It is to sartorialists what Soho is to perverts.
I spotted this item in the window of N.Peal during a random Saturday morning ankle through the Arcade.
New Feature: Random Finds
My girlfriend, Westie, was talking to her mother recently, and they were discussing love and relationships -I know, dangerous...
I spotted these in the window of Trickers, which resulted in some unseemly public salivating...
Punching above its weight: The Little Book of Ties
'The Little Book of Ties', by Francois Chaille, Flammarion 2001, Paperback £6.95 (Foyle's)
Here are your starters for ten.
What is meant by the hand of a tie? What was a Macaroni? What are Macclesfield and Madder? From when does paisley date? How many ties should a man have in his wardrobe? What are the 5 ways to check the quality of a tie? What weights of silk should be used in tie making? What differentiates handmade ties from machine made?
Affable and Affordable Bespoke Tailors: Apsley of London
I've always tried to remember that a thing is never so intimidating as when it is done for the first time.
The Dog's Undercarriage: Adam of London
Before trotting through the door of Adam's take a look down to your left. You'll see the following sign, "All clothing for sale on these premises are exclusive to us in Great Britain. If you want to be exclusive and look the dogs bo**ocks please come in. However if you want to look like a bag of sh*t then we suggest that you go to the shops in the high streets around the country".
A Better Foot Forward: Discount Shoe Sales
Can I trust you? I do hope so; because the Discount Shoe Sales shop is one of London's best kept secrets. You will never see this shop advertised. Indeed, I only discovered these guys by fluke some years ago. But I've never gone anywhere else since.
Family, Flair and Finesse: Nino's
Lots of people claim to offer something original, but the reality is few do. Not so with Nino's. While they produce elegant shirts in plain colours suitable for the office, the majority of the shirts are something a bit special. The sheer variety on offer beggars description.
Technical Terms: Canvas, Semi-canvas, Floating and Fused
In Wednesday's review of Volpe I used a number of technical terms when talking about the construction of Adrian Holdsworth's beautiful suits. For brevity's sake you can't always explain them fully in every article -nor should they be avoided. But BespokeMe is about knowledge, and I've promised to explain every term used.
The Italian Job: Volpe
An independent men's outfitter offering a complete wardrobe of understated, luxury clothing at affordable prices, under its own label. A European influence means rich colours, beautiful Italian fabrics and manufacturing, as well as an immaculate attention to detail. The guys here take real pride in what they do, which shows in both the warmth of the service and quality of the product. The coffee is excellent.
How to: Tie a Bow Tie
I was having a jar with my friend Dave a couple of days ago, when he revealed one of his house mates had got himself into a bit of a bind. Having been so long since his last black tie event he had forgotten how to tie his bow tie.
