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My Own Money: T Burrows Unstructured, Patch Pocket Jacket

Thursday 14 May 2009

A timeless core item for the Sring and Summer Having had the best part of a week off, owing to a dose of the flue, it’s back to it with gusto.

I have a list as long as my arm of independent retailers to investigate. Most are geared towards urban and casual clothing, as opposed to the more formal tailoring and vintage stores which have been our standard fair to date. Friday will be my recky day, and I’m rather hopeful of turning up a gem or two. I’m particularly interested to see what Mudford & Scruff turns out to be. And Saturday I shall be chasing up bespoke tailors in the Clapham area.

And Today I’m going back to interview Allan and Michael, the owners of T.Burrows; the little shop I discovered a few weeks ago in Marylebone. I have to say this is the part of doing BespokeMe which I enjoy the most; finding out about the people that own and run these little shops; their vision, their motivation and, above all, the infinite details behind the garments. And therein lay one of the important differences between the high-street and the independent.

And that brings me to the cotton Linen mix, patch pocket, unstructured jacket above. This is a throw on, anytime, any occasion jacket that every man ought to have in his wardrobe. It sits as well with T-shirts and jeans as it does with collars, tie and woollen trousers. In fact there really isn’t much you can’t put with it. It’s a classic bit of kit and a core item for summer. It also happens to be a speciality of Allan and Michael’s at T. Burrows, which was where I bought this one from.

An unstructured jacket has essentially two parts to it, the internal and the external. Internally, it will have little or no padding/wadding in the shoulders, no canvass and may well be unlined, or more likely quarter to three quarter lined. Externally it should have patch pockets, no button wholes on the cuff and usually a seam of stitching in it place. Designs do vary, so you may find a mix of these elements. The main thing is that the cut is loose, exhibiting almost no tailoring.

A soft shoulder Patch Pockets

 

Within those elements lay all manner of pitfalls. The main problem is that if little care is taken in the construction, instead of hanging from you the jacket collapses upon you. Poor examples will leave you with excess cloth under the arms, across the chest and around the shoulder blades. Relaxed jacketing merely becomes scruffy, cheap looking jacketing.

Allan and Michael have perfected their design of jackets over many years and as such have turned it into a bit of a specialism. As a result, after several years of searching I finally acquired one, and it’s rarely been off my back since.

Posted by Stealth

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