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Rock 'N' Roll: Archer Adams, Marylebone

Thursday 20 May 2010

 
Of all the men I’ve interviewed while running BespokeMe I think Archer Adams takes first prize for having the most unusual background.

Archer has had a hand in producing every one of these albams An American by birth he’s lived here in the UK for 10 years; has been a political strategist in Washington DC (working on the Ross Perro ticket); at 16 he was signed up by a well known music publisher as a songwriter; he’s been an artist manager in the music business representing hit songwriters; a record producers and recording artists; and heavily involved in styling photo shoots. It is this last job that brought him into the world of fashion. He tells me that creating looks for bands and artists he found more and more that the business of clothes, style and creating a look was where his true interest lay.
 
himself When you consider that he’s setting up an independent label (notoriously difficult) in the midst of a recession and in a foreign country you can’t help but admire the man’s pluck. But Archer has that ‘can do’ and natural enthusiasm, which often marks out Americans from us Europeans. Similarly, he has that easy charm possessed by many of the Americans I’ve encountered over the years (where do they teach that?); which is how I came to spent a couple of very enjoyable hours talking about his slowly growing collection, stuff in the pipeline, his style influences as well as perusing cloth swatches, future designs and samples.

And what is that style?

Well, the line from Archer is that the “brand is positioned between the premium end of the high street and international designer brands and aimed at confident, stylish men who are interested in individuality and quality”. That tells you something, but not the full story in my view.
 

Despite their apparently radical colours, quirks and decidedly rock ‘n’ roll aura, I think these clothes are surprisingly easy to dress, and would provide that touch of individuality and personal character which is the hallmark of stylish dressers.
 

I could see myself wearing just about every item –although in reality not everything would suit me or my sturdy frame, cuts are slim and modern. But I will be adding a few pieces to my wardrobe in time. Overall, and my excess timber laden frame aside, there really are some wonderful pieces for free thinkers and free spirits. The denim suit I thought was a wonderful idea and beautifully cut, as was the Velvet Crombie –which is begging to be made in black and worn with a dinner jacket.
 
 
I guess, however, the majority of Archer’s customers will be those with a similar artistic bent to himself. I did ask Archer how he’d describe himself and his own personal style, “A new Dandy, I think”, was his reply.

And that’s the interesting thing about the collection; the influences of Archer’s unconventional background are ever present. His artistic streak is obvious, but so too is a carefully studied attention to detail and nuance –the hallmark of a political strategist. There are elements of L.A., New York and London, English tradition and craft, coupled with American can do and “that’s the way we like it”. With all these things going on you could end up with a jarring mess (a bit like a transatlantic accent) but in my view Archer pulls it off.
 
 
And I wouldn’t say this was a matter of style over substance. Archer told me that prior to opening the shop he spent the best part of two years learning about garment construction and manufacture; seeking out suppliers who could make the clothes in the limited edition runs to the standard he desired. Most, but not all, the clothes are manufactured in the UK, and the cloth for most of his garments is English. For example, the short jackets are made of Holland & Sherry moleskin and velvet. He has beautiful Aero leather pilots jackets, made in Scotland from horse hide, and was very passionate about English tailoring and tradition. Silhouettes are tailored and sizes reflect this, although Archer works closely with his manufacturers and is perfectly willing to have something made right for an individual. All these things are of course reflected in the prices, but I have to say I wouldn’t begrudge paying them. I did rather fancy one of the short jackets in cream or green moleskin, a stellar alternative to the classic if all too common denim jacket. And although I’m not normally a fan of leather jackets, I can see myself wearing the ‘Crop Duster’ jacket –paired with some Redwing boots, very Indian Jones.

When I visited Archer his first, and only, shop had just been fitted out and stock was beginning to arrive, but you can expect a full range of clothes from coats to neck ties. What I saw was inspired, stylish, uncommon clothes made to rigorous standards and draped proportionately with an exacting cut. After just one season it might be too hard to call but I think Archer’s gamble will pay off and I look forward to seeing more.
 
Archer Adams
2 Chiltern Street
London W1U 7PR

Posted by Stealth

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