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How To: Sniff Out A New Scent

Tuesday 9 March 2010

 

I’m on the hunt, sniff, inhale or what ever the verb might be for finding a new scent. I’d been content with my Chanel Allure for years; I liked it and it suited me. So much so, that amongst my female friends it is regarded as something of a signature. Indeed, Westie is known to dab some on a hanky when she goes away alone to remind herself of me. All very touching, but I feel the need to vary the bounce.

 

Something original

I’m looking for two scents, and have already settled on Ormonde Man for one, which I reviewed  a couple of posts ago. As it happens an interesting little article appeared in the Evening Standard this week stating that London’s boutique perfumers have become increasingly sort after for their genuinely exclusive and originality offerings. Interestingly, BespokeMe’s top pick of Ormonde Jayne was given a mention. The article also provided a few possible leads for me to follow up –which will be reported.

 

Preperation, preperation, preperation

So, I’m still looking for that second scent, which is no easy job if you take it seriously. In fact you ought to treat it with the same care as you would choosing any other aspect of your wardrobe. It’s a whole other world out there, with its blogging enthusiasts as passionate and as dedicated to detail as those of us enthralled by tailoring and style. There is a lot more to it than just yomping down to Selfridges picking up a few bottles you like the look of and spraying it onto little strips of white card for vigorous wafting.

 

What you smell isn't always what you get

Firstly, people’s skin types react differently to different scents, so there is a certain amount of luck involved, or rather trial and error. 

Secondly, a scent is made up of constituent parts often referred to as notes. This system was developed by Charles Piesse in the 19th Century. Scents are also spoken of in reference to a pyramid; top notes, middle notes and base notes. The top notes are the initial smells which fade quickly; the middle notes last longer and are the heart of the scent; and finally when everything settles down you smell the base notes. So it may take up to 30 minutes before you really get to smell what a scent is like. You should also consider the type of scent you want (floral, woody, oriental, spicy, water, moss etc), there are numerous categories and even subcategories.

The final problem is actually testing the scents, which is key to making the right choice. Some of the proper perfumers will willingly provide sample vials of fragrances, allowing you to wear them away from the shop so you can really get a good feel for the scent. Sadly, in my experience while some are helpful most wont offer these up willingly, and how well you do depends on how much bottle you’ve got. If you’re buying from a chain retailer or department store you’ve got no chance of getting any samples. Fortunately there are some good websites providing notes on scents, which may help you narrow down your search.

 

Guides and Blogs to help your search

Below is my list of recommended websites and blogs that should help you master the art of scent, and help keep your finger on the pulse. Bear in mind that there is an element of cross dressing involved in the perfume world. The line between male and female scents is rather blurred, with enthusiasts tending to write on both which ever sex they are.

 

Guides:


The Perfume Guide : Read all 6 Sections on the left hand side and you’re well on your way to knowing most of what you need to know. The explanations are easy and not too long.


Basenotes : An excellent resource for reviews, over 3000 and counting. Reviews often have accompanying notes to the scent –that’s the pyramid of smells. Also useful for cross referencing –remember the cross dressing thing.


Blogs:


Sorcery of Scent : An enthusiast with an easy style of writing, nothing too complicated for the novice. Reviews a good mix of male and female scents –most other blogs are dominated by women’s scents. The guy has taste, you’ll find him reassuringly old school.

Peredepierre : Lively group blog this with a mix of male and female writers (more men I think), plus the odd guest. I sense quite a young group, so the writing is light, easy to read and the mix of scents modern. I rather enjoy this one. Plus some of the posts are tagged male or female, which helps you to find relevant reviews, rather than guessing.

Perfume Guide blog : This is the blog bit of the perfume guide. Useful for reviews, more female than male interest on the whole –but then that’s the market.

Ape to the Gentleman:General all round grooming blog, but some interesting articles –bit Nuts/GQ/Selectism you know the kind of thing...


Posted by Stealth

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