How To: Sniff Out A New Scent
Tuesday 9 March 2010
I’m on the hunt, sniff, inhale or what ever the verb might be for finding a new scent. I’d been content with my Chanel Allure for years; I liked it and it suited me. So much so, that amongst my female friends it is regarded as something of a signature. Indeed, Westie is known to dab some on a hanky when she goes away alone to remind herself of me. All very touching, but I feel the need to vary the bounce.
I’m looking for two scents, and have already settled on Ormonde Man for one, which I reviewed a couple of posts ago. As it happens an interesting little article appeared in the Evening Standard this week stating that London’s boutique perfumers have become increasingly sort after for their genuinely exclusive and originality offerings. Interestingly, BespokeMe’s top pick of Ormonde Jayne was given a mention. The article also provided a few possible leads for me to follow up –which will be reported.
So, I’m still looking for that second scent, which is no easy job if you take it seriously. In fact you ought to treat it with the same care as you would choosing any other aspect of your wardrobe. It’s a whole other world out there, with its blogging enthusiasts as passionate and as dedicated to detail as those of us enthralled by tailoring and style. There is a lot more to it than just yomping down to Selfridges picking up a few bottles you like the look of and spraying it onto little strips of white card for vigorous wafting.
Firstly, people’s skin types react differently to different scents, so there is a certain amount of luck involved, or rather trial and error.
Secondly, a scent is made up of constituent parts often referred to as notes. This system was developed by Charles Piesse in the 19th Century. Scents are also spoken of in reference to a pyramid; top notes, middle notes and base notes. The top notes are the initial smells which fade quickly; the middle notes last longer and are the heart of the scent; and finally when everything settles down you smell the base notes. So it may take up to 30 minutes before you really get to smell what a scent is like. You should also consider the type of scent you want (floral, woody, oriental, spicy, water, moss etc), there are numerous categories and even subcategories.
The final problem is actually testing the scents, which is key to making the right choice. Some of the proper perfumers will willingly provide sample vials of fragrances, allowing you to wear them away from the shop so you can really get a good feel for the scent. Sadly, in my experience while some are helpful most wont offer these up willingly, and how well you do depends on how much bottle you’ve got. If you’re buying from a chain retailer or department store you’ve got no chance of getting any samples. Fortunately there are some good websites providing notes on scents, which may help you narrow down your search.
Below is my list of recommended websites and blogs that should help you master the art of scent, and help keep your finger on the pulse. Bear in mind that there is an element of cross dressing involved in the perfume world. The line between male and female scents is rather blurred, with enthusiasts tending to write on both which ever sex they are.
Guides
The Perfume Guide
: Read all 6 Sections on the left hand side and you’re well on your way to knowing most of what you need to know. The explanations are easy and not too long.
Basenotes
:
An excellent resource for reviews, over 3000 and counting. Reviews often have accompanying notes to the scent –that’s the pyramid of smells. Also useful for cross referencing –remember the cross dressing thing.
Blogs to keep an eye on
Sorcery of Scent
:
An enthusiast with an easy style of writing, nothing too complicated for the novice. Reviews a good mix of male and female scents –most other blogs are dominated by women’s scents. The guy has taste, you’ll find him reassuringly old school.
Peredepierre
:
Lively group blog this with a mix of male and female writers (more men I think), plus the odd guest. I sense quite a young group, so the writing is light, easy to read and the mix of scents modern. I rather enjoy this one. Plus some of the posts are tagged male or female, which helps you to find relevant reviews, rather than guessing.
Perfume Guide blog
: This is the blog bit of the perfume guide. Useful for reviews, more female than male interest on the whole –but then that’s the market.
Ape to the Gentleman:General all round grooming blog, but some interesting articles –bit Nuts/GQ/Selectism you know the kind of thing...
Posted by Stealth
BespokeMe Ratings
click on any link above to see more items that match that type or try our Advanced Search
Nosh: Kyoto, A Perfect Cheap Soho Eatery
Wednesday 3 March 2010
Whether it be an impromptu get together with mates, improving your stock value with the girlfriend or a random date, a chap ought to have a few good quality cheap eateries in his back pocket.
Ever since a trip to Japan nearly 10 years ago, I‘ve had a great love of Japanese food. Unfortunately in London you seem to have two choices, go cheap and eat junk sushi from an airport luggage conveyer belt; or be prepared to fork out large sums if you want to experience the full range of Japanese cooking. But for every rule there is an exception, and Kyoto on Romilly Street is it.
If you’re unfamiliar with Japanese cuisine Kyoto offers a broad snapshot (if that isn't a terrible contradiction). You’ll find the very freshest sushi, the lightest Tempura batter, dumplings, noodle and rice dishes all beautifully prepared with obviously good quality ingredients. The service is exactly what you would expect from the Japanese, courteous, friendly and efficient. Westie and I had a real mix of dishes and while far from experts in this field we were deeply impressed. In fact she recently went back for one of her girls nights.
Set on Romilly Street it is sufficiently far away from the tourist honey trap that is China Town not to be packed. And the fact that there were plenty of young Japanese people eating amongst us was reassuring. But like many restaurants in the area Kyoto is small –even a little cramped- and very informal. Strictly a come as you are eatery. All that said, its popularity means it’s advisable to book in advance, and I’ve already added the number to my mobile phone.
We ordered five dishes, beers, plum wine and a soft drink and everything came to £45. By far one of the best Far Eastern dining establishments I have ever been to, and a useful place to know about.
Can I suggest that if you want to play the all knowing man about town card, you can always pop into the slightly flash bar at Kettners for £10 Champagne cocktails before trotting the three or four doors down to Kyoto.
Kyoto
26 Romilly Street
Soho
London
W1D 5AL
Tel: 020 7734 7622
MAP
Posted by Stealth
BespokeMe Ratings
click on any link above to see more items that match that type or try our Advanced Search
Jermyn Street As It Should Be: Harvie & Hudson
Monday 1 March 2010
H&H is one of those fine English outfitters that every chap should have in his back pocket. Perhaps best known for their bespoke shirts which are still cut on the premises, they are the last of the Jermyn Street shirt makers still owned by the founding family. Bold butchers stripes are a trademark, as is the white collar and cuff shirt –which is my preference for something classic and bold.
I’ll confess
I have a shirt maker and so haven’t bought either their bespoke or ready to wear shirts. But
here is a nice little article by Will on his blog A Suitable Wardrobe.
Where I find them useful is in supplying everything else, from Covert coats to boxer shorts. And I have to say I love their kit. If you’re looking for no-nonsense old school, classic clothing at a fair price and of good quality they’re the guys. A good example is their lambswool jumpers, a couple of which I bought on Saturday. Under a £100 for two, they’re 2 ply, soft but substantial and made in Scotland. As someone who sports more of a family-pack than a six-pack one of the things I particularly like about Harvie & Hudson is that their clothing is classic cut, so I don’t have to worry about sizing.
I’m sure that some would be put off by the dowdy exterior and interiors to the shops. It would be fair to say that remodelling hasn’t been high on the agenda. But the staff are approachable and courteous –particularly the old boys- and if the image of a shop is the sort of thing that matters to you, then you’re free to go to flashier establishments and pay more for a lot less.
That said, after years of inactivity there appears to be movement at H&H, not only have they
redesigned the website to give it a fresher look, they have also introduced a line of slim fit shirts to their ready to wear range. I was also interested to learn that they have teamed up with that other Jermyn Street icon,
Taylor of Old Bond Street , and begun offering a barbers and grooming service in a new establishment in the City.
Speaking for myself, Jermyn Street really wouldn’t be the same place without them.
Posted by Stealth
BespokeMe Ratings
click on any link above to see more items that match that type or try our Advanced Search
A Few of My Favourite Things: Shades of Grey & Black
Thursday 25 February 2010
I’ve been suffering from man flue just recently and this may have warped my outlook.
Shades of Grey and Black...
Left to right:
Cold & Flue Medicine: Guinness by Guinness
Posted by Stealth
BespokeMe Ratings
click on any link above to see more items that match that type or try our Advanced Search
Recent Articles
Booze and Nosh: The Grenadier Public House
A proper decent British Pub. One worth having in your arsenal.
Wednesday 24 February 2010
Ormonde Jayne Perfumery
A Look at London based Ormonde Jayne perfumery. Specialising in rare oils and unusual ingredients for something unique and individual.
Monday 22 February 2010
What Would You Like To See? (Answers in the Comments Section)
Smart Turnout are launching a new range of clothing and want to know what you would like them to produce.
Thursday 18 February 2010
How to: Fold A Shirt The Samurai Way
The Samurai way to fold a shirt.
Tuesday 16 February 2010
My Own Money: Albam Tassel Loafers
How I spend my own money.
Sunday 14 February 2010
Big Discounts On Nino's Shirts, Ties and Accessories
Time to nip down to Nino's.
Thursday 11 February 2010
Wrist Action: Smart Turnout Military Watches
The combining of the ultra formal and the informal is something all the great dressers have demonstrated at one time or another.My preference is to go for the military watch and a coloured wrist band.
Wednesday 10 February 2010
Cheap Online Sources: Michelson's Knitted Ties
A cheap source for good quality knitted silk ties.
Monday 8 February 2010
Getting Naked in Spain: Susan Callister Photography Courses
Fancy a digital photography course in Spain. Westie reviews Susan Callister and gets her kit off.
Thursday 4 February 2010
Weadmire Come Up Trumps
If you like your T-shirts, and you've never heard of Weadmire.net you ought to check them out.
Wednesday 3 February 2010
